A.E.I.R.A. Societies Act
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Ice Race Tire Manual
This information has been supplied to provide the first time ice racer with the ability to build a set of tires that will work and last. This information is current to the end of the 2003 ice race season and will be updated as the 2004 season unfolds. This by no means is the only way to build tires but this information is courtesy of the fastest quad racers in Alberta and has been proven to last for thousands of kilometers of ice racing.
Tires: What’s working and what’s not.
1. Cheng Chen C-826 “Ice Tire”
Size: 20 x 11 x 9
Features: This is the traditional tire with 440 separate square knobs. Flat profile.
Pluses: Durable, proven. Great in soft ice conditions.
Minuses: With 440 screws installed it is heavy!
Hot Setup: Remove some knobs and reduce the number of screws to hook up better. Use one screw per knob.
2. Dunlop K927
Size: 20 x 10 x 10
Features: Alternating angled knob pattern with 110 knobs. Rounded profile and light weight casing.
Pluses: With two screws per knob it holds 220 screws and weighs 4 – 6 pounds less than a Cheng Chen. Works on hard and soft ice.
Minuses: Need to put on very wide rims to flatten the profile. Hard to find a supplier that has these in stock.
Hot Setup: 20 x 10 x 10 on 10 x 10 rims. 220 of 1-1/4 screws.
3. Kenda Klaws
Features: Similar to Dunlop K927 but has a dimple in the knob. Curved profile with light weight carcass.
Pluses: The same as Dunlop. Readily available.
Minuses: Limited time on these but what a great tire on hard ice!
Hot Setup: The same as Dunlop K927.
Two schools of thought – Large diameter for crawling out of ruts vs. small diameter and lighter casing for speed. Reality is most front tires work reasonably well in all conditions.
1. Cheng Chen Wooley Booger Copy
Size: 22 x 8 x 10
Features: Has lots of rubber to mount your screws. Has a flat profile.
Pluses: Has good directional ribs and large rolling diameter. Can use short 1⁄2” Gold Cutter screw that does not go through the tire.
Minuses: More reciprocating weight than other tires and you will have to replace missing screws after each race.
Hot Setup: Five screws per bar and one per knob. 1/2” Gold Cutters with 3/8” high head. Outer knobs can be removed on both sided to increase screw pressure.
2. Maxis Razor
Size: 21 x 7 x 10
Features: Center rib, curved profile.
Pluses: Lightweight with good screw pressure from center rib design. Can use 1⁄4” high screws.
Minuses: Knobs are soft so you need to run the screws through the tire and support them with the 5/8” or 3/4” flanged nuts.
Hot Setup: Use 1-1/4” maverick screw, anchor them with Wurth pawl nuts, and seal the tire and nuts with urethane on the inside.
3. Maxis Maverick
Size: 21 x 7 x 10
Features: A V-knob pattern with a curved profile on a light casing.
Pluses: Light and needs fewer screws.
Minuses: Not much experience with this tire but it has made the top three list.
Hot Setup: Can run the V-pattern forward or reverse to change braking characteristics. Use Maverick 1-1/4” with pawl nuts. Five screws per center V-rib, one per knob.
What’s available, what’s hot!
1. Gold Cutter – AMA approved “USA rules”.
Features: 3/8” high head with a sharp cutting edge and a grooved feature to prevent the center from packing with ice. Shank is .129” O.D.
2. Holiday Ice Screw – CMA approved “Canadian rules”.
Features: 1/4” high head with a larger shank (.160” O.D.) Has a .300” washer at base of head, taller head, bigger shank because of increased stresses.
3. Maverick Ice Screw – CMA approved.
New screw for 2003 with a combination of features from both Gold Cutter and Holiday screws.
Features: 1/4” high with sharp edge and V-grooved center on the head. Large shank as well as a 3mm larger base collar (.400”) to provide stability. 1-1/4” and 1-1/2” sizes but by 2004 will have more length selections.
Pawl or speed nuts – what is being used.
1. Wurth #502-2557
#10x1/2” O.D. flange
Features: Good retention and smaller and lighter but not as much support as the 3/4” or 5/8” sizes.
2. Wurth #502-2558
#10x3/4” O.D. flange
Features: Same as 2557 but has a larger flange with more support.
3. Au-ve-co #2896
3/16” hole 5/8” O.D. flange
Features: The hole is slightly larger than #10, so not as tight fitting on the screw shank. Would be too loose on gold cutter screws. Best feature is 3 tabs punched around flange O.D. that prevent it from rotating off.
Tire Scaling Materials
1. Locktite Quick-Tite Gel, 4 oz. Container
Available at Canadian Tire
Can be applied to the shank of a screw near the head to help seal the hole.
2. Duramix 4374
Two-part rubber compound that will adhere to rubber
Can be used on the upper shank of the screw at installation
Provides a superior seal to the nuts
Is best applied to the hollow of the nut then, as the nut is installed, it will coat the screw to act as a locking agent.
Available at Acklands or other auto body suppliers that carry Duramix products.
6 oz. Tube $45.00, at least two kits per tire
Note: has very short working time
3. Windshield Urethane
Comes in 310 ml. Cartridges of high viscosity or low viscosity vs. costly mix. The high viscosity dries faster.
The best success with urethane is to coat the screw and nut after installation and the nut can not come off past the coating.
You will need a high quality caulking gun to apply this stuff. It eats cheap guns.
Available from Greggs Distributors. 3M #08609 WINDO-WELD SUPER FAST URETHANE
1. Clean the inside of the tire with acetone or similar cleaner to remove dirt and releasing agents from the surface.
2. Lay out your pattern with paint pencil. Establish a left and right tire and mark them clearly.
3. Install the screws with the tire inflated to minimize hole size.
Note: Be careful to space or tilt the screws to allow space for the nuts on the inside. The small diameter Wurth 502-2557 nut is handy to use when crowding occurs.
4. When installed the screws, make sure they seat against the tire but do not sink them in.
5. Install retaining nuts. Again, seat the nut against the surface but do not pull the screw any deeper.
6. Apply the urethane to coat the protruding shank and nut. Use a cheap paint brush and cut the bristles short. Lay down a little at a time and daub it onto the nut, screw and casing in a thin layer. This will dry quickly and set up hard.
Due to increasing environmental concerns, the Pembina Dirt Riders Association agree to provide decontamination of the main ice pit area. It is however, your team's responsibility to prevent contamination of your own area and to provide the subsequent cleaning.
Your team will be asked to fill out the following Environmental Agreement by the Referee/Organizer at the race. Please help us to keep the ice spotless and help us to prove to the public that Dirt Riders aren't dirty!!
PEMBINA DIRT RIDERS
PIT ENVIRONMENTAL AGREEMENT
I _______________________________ UNDERSTAND THE IMPORTANCE OF LEAVING THE PIT AREA USED BY MYSELF AND MY TEAM FREE OF ALL GARBAGE INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO: HAY BALES, OIL, GASOLINE, ANTI-FREEZE, SUNFLOWER SEEDS, ORANGE PEELS, FIRE PIT, HUMAN WASTE (INCLUDING URINE) ETC. I AGREE TO LEAVE THE PIT AREA IN THE SAME CONDITION THAT I FOUND IT (SNOW & ICE ONLY).
I FURTHER AGREE THAT IF DECONTAMINATION OF THE MY PIT AREA IS NECESSARY, I WILL BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF CLEAN-UP & DECONTAMINATION OF THE SITE AND I WILL PAY THE COSTS INCURRED BY THE PEMBINA DIRT RIDERS IN FULL OR RISK THE REVOCATION OF MY RACING LICENCE AS WELL AS LOSE THE PRIVELEGE OF ATTENDING ANY CMRC EVENT IN THE FUTURE.
TEAM CAPTAIN (PLEASE PRINT)______________________________ADDRESS:__________________________
We would like to see all motorcycles place the transponder at a maximum height of 36 inches. This is 12 inches lower than AMB recommends due to the fact we need to place the detection loop 12 inches into the ice. And remember to mount the transponder in the vertical position so reading the label is normal, with no metal or carbon fiber blocking the signal to the track.
Please attach the transponder with the clip supplied. We suggest placing the transponder on the front fork tube, the side opposite to the brake disk, as low as possible on the back of the fork. Then we would also like everyone to duct tape the unit completely around the fork, leaving an opening for the battery indicator light to be seen.
For quads, attach the transponder to a frame tube on the lower park of the chassis with now signal obstruction downwards, no metal or carbon fiber between the bottom of the transponder and the track no higher than 36", and duct tape.
Charging instructions for all transponders
When fully charged a green light will continuously show
Once you unplug the transponder from the charger it is now operational. The light will blink once for each day the transponder is expected to work.
An uncharged transponder will show no indications.
Note: when the transponder was not able to operate for a minimum of 4 days on a full charge, all led indications will show red. Instead of blinking for instance 2 times green, the led on the transponder will blink 2 times red. When on the next recharge the transponder will operate for a minimum of 4 days the normal blinking procedure will be restored. If the transponder will still not flash the proper indications, please contact Jamie at Southgate Pontiac and I will replace the transponder, and send yours for repair.
I would suggest getting familiar with how the transponder works before showing up to a race. It holds a charge for quite a long time, the cold will reduce that time, but it will definitely last the length of a race. Plan to charge it 15 hours before you leave for a race, or do the remainder of the charging on you way to the race with the cigarette attachment charger. It would be better to have it fully charged early, than not have it fully charged when you start the race.
Thanks Again, and good luck
Dear Fellow Ice Racers
We have tested out the AMB timing system so far, and all is well. Everything works like it should, and we are in the process of doing some final tests to display the results live on the TV monitors, in the near future.
If you check out http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevents.jsp?st=3&org=128 you will see what the results look like. This is a practice that we held to test the timing system and see how everything works. If you have purchased a Transponder, you need to log on to the www.mylaps.com site and go to register, and register your transponder number (on the transponder) and your name. You will receive an email back with your own password and then you can re-log onto the mylaps.com website and view you own personal results within the race that you were a contestant in. You will be able to print off your own results from that screen. Even for the people who rent transponders, you will have access to the same information, all you nee is the Transponder ID#.
It may sound complicated, but is quite easy, and the information is way better that we had before.
As for transponder placement, we are still experimenting but the less metal near the transponder the better, the signal is quite strong, but metal will weaken it somewhat. Dan Cheron has a great place to mount on the 4-stroke motorcycle, on the front of the radiator down low on the left-hand side. I seems to give a great signal there. For 2 stroke bikes this could work as long as the pipe does not curl around below the radiator. The Transponders are tough, they are shock and vibration resistant, just mount them as solid as possible.
We will update you again with the final recommended placement after the last practice on January 19, 2003. Otherwise have fun and get ready.
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